No wonder why the diff lock broke, the 4wd will break too. I would fix that problem some other way than 4wd or diff lock. I don’t know, but 4 5/16” pins in shear mode are really strong, even with a gap.īut holy crap, spinning one wheel backwards going down the driveway on regular basis is an indication of something else going wrong, ballasts or something, which actually sounds dangerous to me. The different speeds of front and back in 4WD is also a strain on it. I don't know what would be harder on it, driving it down the hill there in 4WD, or with the rear locked? The drive does have some curves to it so it would be putting a strain on the diff lock. Glad I wasn't paying the bill!Īnd as far as not using the diff lock on pavement, at times going down my steep driveway and using the brakes the one wheel will spin backwards and the other forward so it doesn't stop well that way. Let me tell you, as weak as those parts are, I will not treat the locking differential as a tractor feature, but instead like a very delicate afterthought in the design. I think if the pins were almost twice the thickness I'd be happy with the design, but not as is. So it's not like it takes 100% shear strength, there is a gap that allows the pins to bend a little. Without seeing the new parts I can't be sure, but the elongated holes in the carrier may start out elongated and got worse? IDK, I'm going to jack up one wheel, hold it in lock and feel how much play the wheel has in locked mode.Īnyway the worst part besides the pins being too small is the fact that the spool or whatever you want to call it that the locking pins are mounted in never comes flat against the carrier and the spider gear. The holes in the carrier were elongated to over twice the width of the pins, then there was some wear where the pins go into the spider gear but not much. I had pictured the pins at about 1/2" or so, these are NOT in my opinion up to the task and neither is the carrier they go through. These go (I think all the time?) through the diff carrier and when engaged go into the spider gear. To lock the rear there are 4 pins about 5/16" thick and an inch or so long. I sure am glad this was under warranty! I got to see the old parts (I should have taken pics). The third is probably the mower height adjustment knob. This is the second most misunderstood control on a tractor, the first is the 3pt speed control. Not trying to bragg here, just trying to encourage people to use it and not be afraid to use it, it’s really useful sometimes. I’ve been using diff locks on tractors for 45 years, never had a problem. It’s a really tough mechanism in the differential, and can take a lot of differential torque when used properly, that’s what it’s for. It’s really helpful when on a slope and both high side tires spin. You get quit good at it after a while, I engage and disengage without thinking about it. Pins get broken when people put high differential torque on tires when partially engaged. When lever is all the way up it’s disengaged, it cannot still be engaged with lever all the way up. To disengage, let up on lever move slowly turn slightly one way or other to relieve pressure on pins, lever will pop up. Don’t put heavy pressure on the lever it doesn’t do any good. Make certain the lever goes full down, for full engagement before doing your work. The lever will go down with light pressure when pins become aligned, then turn straight. The best way to do this is turn slightly while slowly moving with a light pressure on the lever. The tires definitely have to move at different speeds to align and engage. It’s rare that when you step down on the lock that the pins are aligned and it engages.
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